Vintage Wood March April 2007

Like the newsletter, we are trying something NEW this year! We are e-mailing the Boat Show Registration Forms to our e-mail list. You can fill it out and submit it by e-mail to WCCB2007BoatShow@aol.com, OR print it out and mail it back to us.

If you prefer a mailed (printed) copy to fill out and return, please let us know by e-mail (WCCB2007BoatShow@aol.com) or call us at 585-526-6934.

Thank you for your comments on the new layout of the Vintage Wood. We have received a lot of positive feedback, and will continue this venue for a bit. Please remember, if you prefer to receive a “snail mail” copy, all you need to do is ask us… just let us know!

Boat show season is FAST approaching. Registration forms for the Wine Country Show will be sent in a few days. We’re all trying to spruce up our boats, and the smell of varnish will soon fill the air! In this issue you will find a detailed list of what the guidelines are for ACBS judging, which was taken from the ACBS website, ACBS.org. Please take time to look at these guidelines as you prepare your boats for judging.

We also need your help already for the 2008 WCCB Boat Show!!! Do you have a 1940’s boat? Would you like YOUR boat to be our “poster child?” Please submit any pictures you have in a jpeg format to Marti Issing at kdissing@frontiernet.net, as we are busy preparing the poster for next year’s boat show.

Enjoy these wonderful spring days! We look forward to seeing everyone at the boat shows this summer!

Many of us, as members of ACBS, and our local chapters, started out our interest in classic boats with an outboard boat and motor. Your experiences and mine may have involved a lot of frustration. Outboard motors can have personalities of their own…..ask any vintage Mercury owner. Many times they can misbehave to put it mildly.

If you are like me you may have come to mistrust outboards, in my case they were complicated machines that held some sort of mysterious power. I was afraid to confront them lest they rebel and totally refuse to start, let alone run! I had a couple of outboards at the time, a 15hp 1956 Evinrude that was mine as a kid. It always ran like a charm, so when I got a Penn Yan Swift I put it on and it ran great, as usual. I also had a relatively “modern” 1971 40hp Johnson that I ran on a 14ft. Penn Yan Captivator. As time went on I learned that in having your boat judged it was best to have a motor of exactly the same year. In addition, I learned, that certain outboards were, for lack of a better defining term, sexier. That seems true of the early Mercurys. They were fast, and loud. They were gnarly!!

They were something else too……fussy. They ran well, BUT you really needed to know how to tinker with them, constantly adjusting them. It also doesn’t hurt to swear at them…..yes, they seem to respond to a good curse or two, even an occasional kick……hey, I just had a thought, maybe that’s where the phrase “old kicker” came from? Anyway, I decided I needed to find out how to work on outboard motors, to try to demystify them.

Enter a man who knew a lot about outboard motors and in particular, their cosmetic restoration, Ed Van Tasel. Big Ed, as he was known, looked a bit like John Candy, the comedian, and had terrific enthusiasm for his work. I met Ed at the ‘ Back Home Again’ Penn Yan boats reunions held at the Penn Yan factory for a couple years. Ed was there with some beautifully restored motors. I really liked his work and we struck a deal for him to restore my 15hp 1956 Evinrude. While working on that one I told him the motor I really wanted as a kid was the 30hp Big Twin 1956 Evinrude, but in those days that motor was too expensive and too big for our boat. Ed told me we could put one together and he’d help me restore it. Enter the second resource for outboard knowledge and the one who taught me the various ‘tricks of the trade’ so to speak, Wayne Murray of Discount Marine.

Wayne is a very patient teacher, he needed to be with me since I tend to be a very impatient person. He guided me through selecting various pieces and parts needed to build a 1956 30hp. He has an unbelievable accumulation of older motors and he is known for his ability to work miracles with these older motors. He is today about the only one who will still works on the old Mercurys, though he really doesn’t like to. Mercurys have so many special tools needed for their repair, but he has figured out ways around them and has shared that with me.

Over the span of about 10 years now I have been pestering Wayne to learn the secrets of outboard motor repair. While I was still teaching I’d spend a lot of time at his shop during Christmas (oops, sorry, politically correct…Holiday Vacation), and February break. During those times he and his son Scott work on rebuilds and preparations for the next busy season. I learned that after about April, he became way too busy, so I stayed away from then until about October.

Over the years I would buy a motor from him and then spend time there learning how to rebuild it. I’ve become fairly knowledgeable from the power head right through the gear case, essentially from top to bottom. My knowledge is limited to from about 1950-mid70’s, after which electronics and carburetion changed tremendously, and these are “modern” motors not used on our classic boats. I am not knowledgeable about those from the 20’s-40’s, that’s a whole world unto itself. I’m basically a kid of the 50’s and early 60’s so that’s where my interests lie.

Okay, suppose you want to restore an outboard to show by itself or you want it for you classic woodie, what do you do? If your pockets are deep enough you can have the work done for you but many of us like to do the work ourselves, a big part of this hobby. Truthfully, I enjoy messing with the boats and motors a lot more than riding in them!

There are numerous resources out there to help you. Start with your chapter members. One of the reasons for our club’s existence is sharing information and restoration tips and techniques with one another. Go to workshops. Many chapters are seeing increases in interest in the outboards, so they include presentations on various aspects of outboard repair in their workshops. ASK QUESTIONS. You will find that one contact leads to another and you can usually find someone who has the answers you need or the parts, etc.

There is a national club called the Antique Outboard Motor Club, which, like ACBS, has chapters throughout the nation. There are local chapters and we have two in our area that are close to most of our members: The Finger Lakes Chapter and the Thousand Island Chapter. Their members have the contacts and expertise that you need to handle any problem. If you are interested in any of these you can contact me. You can find a mentor who will be glad to help you.

The cosmetic restoration is still an area I need to learn more about. The ideal is to have the necessary spray equipment to paint the motor like original. Basically it is the same as automotive painting and requires patience and practice. You can ‘do it yourself’ and get satisfactory results. There are aerosol type spray systems available that give pretty good results. You can now get paint matched by taking a sample to an automotive paint supply store and they can computer match it for you. There is a man in Canada who has most engine paints available in individual spray cans and quarts. Contact me for his info.

Decals are available from several sources. American Outboard in Maryland has made up decals of almost every motor you’d want, they also have many old motors and parts. There are marque clubs in the Antique Outboard Motor Club that can provide you info and contacts or parts for all brands, for example Mercury, Evinrude, Champion, Martin, etc. Chrome parts can be redone just like those on the boats, not cheap but available. Many have molded plastic badges, these can have cracks or crazing. I found that spraying them with clear coat makes those disappear.

Well that’s an overview of how I got involved in outboard restoration and a bit on ‘how to.’ I will write some articles on troubleshooting, diagnosis and repairs I’ve learned and some of the specific tools you’ll need, for future issues.

Deck construction, seams and bungs: 6 point maximum. 1 point for original construction materials—deduct for non-original materials such as plywood, fiberglass, etc. Seams closed and even? Fair & Smooth? Consistent seam width? Slight differences in true vs. false seam width in original wood is not deducted. Caulking flush or concave? Splits and cracks and old hardware fastening holes?

Topside and transom, construction seams and bungs: 5 points maximum--1 point for original construction materials—deduct for non-original materials such as plywood, fiberglass, etc. Grain alignment. Appropriate wood variety and color? Pattern even throughout? Fair, smooth and level? Appropriate lengths and pattern? Splits or cracks? Wood filler or inlays? Swirl marks and cross grain scratches? High quality repairs to original wood are not deducted, but encouraged.

Bottom: 3 points maximum—1 point for original type construction and materials.2 points for condition of wood, tightness, cleanliness’ and safety.

Configuration Changes: 4 points maximum. Changes from Utility to Runabout, Racer, etc.

Varnish and/or paint: 10 points maximum--Luster and gloss? Dust, skips, runs, bubbles, peeling, scratches?

Waterline: 2 points maximum--Clean, even, straight, correct color, pattern or line combination? Parallel to water?

Cockpit instruments and switches: 4 points maximum--Originality, appropriateness? Fit, finish and neatness?All instruments functional and in their correct locations. Gauge faces correct with out pitting, fading or scratches? Discoloration of original faces due to age is not to be deducted.

Steering wheel and column: 2 points maximum--Original wheel type? Condition? Color correct? Finish quality?

Deck hardware: 6 points maximum--Originality, condition, type and correct placement? Finish luster, shine peeling? Mounting neatness and fit? Correct fasteners, type, size, quality and appearance? Screws seated straight, flush and burr-free?

Hull hardware: 2 points maximum--Cut-water (if applicable), rub rails, screws, originality, condition, finish quality? Minor damage (scratches, nicks, etc.) to fending hardware (rub rails, cutwaters, transom straps) is expected and not to be deducted.

Flag poles, burgees, ensigns, lights and globes: 4 points maximum--Correct fixture, size, placement, operability, fit and finish?

Construction of interior decks, seats, cabin sides & tops, bulkheads & upholstery

Seating and cushions: 10 points maximum--(3 point deduction for use of incorrect filling material (ie--foam instead of kapok). 2 point deduction for use of no springs [if applicable]. 3 point deduction for wrong covering material. 2 point deduction for workmanship)

Side panels, ceilings and crash pads: 6 points maximum--Original pattern, color and (original type) material? Fit, condition and finish? Original type fasteners?

Flooring: 2 points maximum--Correct material, pattern (hatch placement, etc.) and fit? Condition? Somewhat worn original floor covering is to be expected and not deducted.

Original or replacement with same engine model and age or optionally offered original engine: No mandatory deduction.

Any engine totally out of character with the age, type and style of the boat: 7 point mandatory deduction.

Replacement engine, later (or earlier) model than originally offered but no longer in production and, in character with the age, type and style of boat: 2 point mandatory deduction.

Wiring & Battery: 4 points maximum--Original appearing type—modern cloth covered wire is no deduction. Correct terminals/connectors? Neat, properly fastened wire looms and runs? Battery and battery boxes rigged correctly

Accessories and Exhaust: 3 points maximum--Condition of exhaust, original type? Starter, generator original to engine model? Correct color? Voltage change?

Engine compartment: 3 point maximum-- clean, neat, finish quality, uncluttered? Correct color?

Look for the missing and incorrect style of screws, nuts, washers, shrouds, covers, shields, cotter pins, clamp and steering handle levers, clamp pads, gas caps, valves, knobs, prop nuts, tilt pins, steering grips, carburetor and prop. If standard components offered by the manufacturer are exhibited they will be judged with the motor, such as running board and canoe brackets, tool stands, etc. Non-factory parts (after market) may be installed on the engine, but scored less, such as brass prop when the original was aluminum and will be scored less that a motor with an original prop. This does NOT apply to racing engines as most racing engine manufacturers expectedowners to use other standard and special after market parts.

Check for worn and damaged parts. Look for rust, corrosion, modifications, gas tank dents, damaged cotter pins, bugged screws, nuts, washers, wires and connectors, cracks in rubber hoses and correct hose clamps. Check for sloppy repairs. Look for evidence of putty, sloppy welding and epoxy repairs, damaged pr chipped prop, etc.

This section applies to the quality and correct application of plating, painting, decals, buffing and polishing as well as cleanliness of the motor, including grease, dirt, dust and even dirt in the screw slots if necessary.

A motor with a very good original decal should score higher than a motor with a replacement decal, which in turn would score higher than a damaged or faded decal, which scores more than a missing or incorrect decal.

Check for correctness and quality of nickel and chrome plating, paint and color, polishing and buffing. Clean motors score higher! Perfect “original” plated and painted surfaces get scored higher than restored surfaces, which score more that scratched, faded, deteriorated, dirty of incorrect surfaces. “Over-restored motors” will be scored only to the manufacturer’s (out-of-the-box-show-room-floor) production level.

Check functional recoil starter, gear shift, neutral clutch, bailers, tilting, steering, rudder, spark advance, silencers and mufflers, compression release valve, ignition cut out, variable pitch prop, electric starter, volt, amp and temperature gauges, electric receptacle, generator, motor lights, key operated clamp pad lock, hoods and covers, knobs, spark plug protectors, spare spark plug holders (with spark plugs), remote gas tank and hose, steering bar and bracket, remote control cable and unit, coil box, battery, etc. Working features score higher!

A MOTOR THAT RUNS PERFECTLY SHOULD BE SCORED AT 10 POINTS. If the motor starts during the first attempt it ought to score higher than one starting on the tenth pull. Either on a stand, tank run or on a boat, the motor should run smooth and clear.

Presentation of the motor should score 10 points. This is important for show spectators. It makes motors more interesting. A well presented motor could include supporting historic data and signage and will score higher than a motor which is just hung on a saw horse.

Deck and hull seams: 5 points maximum--Seams closed and even? Consistent seam width? Slight differences in seam width in original wood is not deducted. Caulking flush or concave?

Bungs, plugs or other fastening covers: 3 points maximum--type original and appropriate? Flush with deck? Dimpling? Grain alignment? Appropriate wood variety and color? Pattern even throughout?

Planks and framing: 15 points maximum--Fair, smooth and level? Appropriate plank lengths and pattern? Splits or cracks? Wood filler or inlays? Swirl marks and cross grain scratches? High quality repairs to original wood are not deducted, but are encouraged. Poor quality repairs may be deducted.

Seating and cushions: 5 points maximum--Original factory type or similar? Original seat pattern? Appropriate replacement? Workmanship, neatness, color, appropriate sewing pattern?

Interior ribs and gunwales: 15 points maximum--Appropriate lengths and widths? Splits or cracks? Wood filler or inlay? Swirl marks and cross grain scratches? High quality repairs to original wood are not deducted, but are encouraged. Poor quality repairs may be deducted. Fit, condition, original type of fasteners?

Flooring: 5 points maximum--Correct material, pattern and fit? Condition? Somewhat worn original floor covering is to be expected and not deducted.

Varnish and/or paint: 10 points maximum--Luster and gloss? Dust, skips, runs, bubbles, peeling, scratches?

Waterline: 2 points maximum--Cleanliness, evenness, straightness? Appropriate width? Parallel to water?

Bottom: 2 points maximum--Appropriate, safe ant tight? Condition of wood and varnish and/or paint?

Deck hardware: 8 points maximum--Originality, appropriateness, condition, type and correct placement? Finish luster, shine peeling? Mounting neatness and fit? Appropriate fasteners, type, size, quality and appearance? Screws seated straight, flush and burr-free?

Hull hardware: 4 points maximum--Cut-water (if applicable), rub rails, screws, originality, condition, finish quality?

Oarlocks: 4 point maximum--Worn, well maintained original or unworn proper replacement--No deduction.

Hull: 5 points maximum--Planks, width and length fair and smooth? Splits or cracks well repaired if in original wood-No deduction. Framing sound and correct? Quality of repairs? Attention to originality?

Deck: 5 points maximum--Original construction? Is canvas or glass filled properly? Caulking flush or concave? Toe rail and deck house trim correctly done? Wood on decks even and fair? Some wear or high quality repairs to original wood--No deduction.

Deck house: 5 points maximum--Original construction? Trim, splits or bad joints? Some wear or high quality repairs to original wood—No deduction. Cabin plank and top beam condition? Cabin top covering canvas or glass? Filled correctly? Cabin glass/skylights? Fit and joiner work, proper seals?

Bottom: 2 points maximum--Original type construction? Safe and tight? Condition of wood?

Bungs, plugs or other fastening covers: 3 points maximum--type original and appropriate? Flush with deck and/or side? Grain alignment?

Exterior: 8 points maximum--Stain correct color? Blotchy or uneven? Varnish and paint luster and gloss? Dust, skips, runs, bubbles, peeling or scratches?

Waterline: 2 points maximum--Clean, even, straight, correct color, pattern or line combination? Parallel to water?

Interior: 8 points maximum--Stain correct color? Blotchy or uneven? Varnish and paint luster, gloss or satin? Sufficient amount of finish? Wood dough and other insufficient fillers? No deduction for appropriate repairs to maintain originality.

Instruments and switches: 5 points maximum--Original type? Appropriate fit? Finish? All instruments properly placed and operational? No pitting or rust of faces? No deductions for modern electronics or new gear. But, special credit should be given to original instruments such as compass, navigational lighting, inside cabin lighting, etc.

Steering stations: 2 points maximum--original or appropriate wheels? Finish stain or plating correct for all stations? Original or correct steering linkage? Some wear or repairs to original wheels--No deduction.

Control Systems: 2 point maximum--Engine controls complete? Correct vintage? Operational? Clean and neat?

Interior hardware: 2 points maximum--Correct light fixtures? Hinges? Latches? Knobs? Window or port light fixtures?

Deck hardware: 5 points maximum--Originality, condition, type and placement? Finish, luster, shine, peeling? Mounting neatness and fit? Appropriate fasteners, type, size, quality and appearance? Proper seating of screws or bolts, burr-free?

Hull hardware: 2 points maximum--Cut-water (if applicable), rub rails, other flat trim, screws, originality, condition, finish quality? Minor damage (scratches, nicks, etc.) to original fending hardware (rub rails, cut-waters, transom straps) is expected and not to be deducted.

Flag poles: 2 points maximum--Yardarm, stanchions, burgees, ensigns, lights, globes, correct size, placement, operation, fit and finish? Lights, if applicable, must operate. 1 point deduction for inoperable lights on poles.

Bulkhead, ceiling, overhead panels: 5 points maximum--Original stripe or patterns, color, material, fit, conditions, finish, workmanship, fasteners? Special attention to major structural change important.

Seating and cushions: 5 points maximum--Originality, style, pattern, correct replacement, neatness, workmanship, color?

Cabin soles: 5 points maximum--Appropriate material, originality, finish, shine, color, correct style covering, color neatness, clean trim molding, correct finish, plating? Somewhat worn original floor covering is to be expected and not deducted.

Décor--accessories: 5 points maximum--Bunk coverings, drapes, curtains, style, originality, workmanship, color, correctness or appropriateness of accessories?

Power plant: 5 points For original or replacement of same age and model. 2 points maximum for condition and cleanliness.

Wiring: 5 points maximum--Original style, connectors, wire looms, neat runs, correct voltage?

Heads: 2 points maximum--Original style, finish, plating or metal finish, condition of porcelain or stainless, neatness, color? No deduction for modern heads if installed appropriately.

Machinery compartment including lazaret, bilge: 5 points maximum--Clean bilge, floorboards, battery and battery boxes rigged correctly? Compartment painted, stained or natural whichever is correct, proper lighting, fuel system, safe and neat (no deduction for safety items filters, backfire arrestors, blowers, fire systems, etc.), condition of other access areas forward or aft such as anchor locker, etc.?

Galley: 3 point maximum--Originality or appropriateness of replacement? Attention should be placed on layout and style of cabinets. No point

Deck and hull sides: 10 points maximum--Are surfaces smooth and fair and free from crazing, blisters, cracks or gouges? Consistent thickness of gelcoat or other coatings? (No glass fibers seen at the surface).

Hull to deck fastening: 3 points maximum--Is the original mechanical and chemical attachment in good repair?

Transom: 3 points maximum--Is the transom top edge in good condition? Evidence of delamination? Are through transom penetrations properly repaired and sealed?

Framing: 4 points maximum--Is the interior framing (fiberglass, wood or other material) in good repair? Are fiberglass encased wood members free from deterioration? Is the structural floor in good condition?

Bottom (to be used on land display only): 2 points maximum--Is the bottom fair and of original configuration? Is the keel in good repair, without gouges? Are there any cracks, splits or discoloration in the gelcoat?

Authenticity of the vessel’s materials: 3 points maximum--Is the vessel a well-maintained original or an approximation with modern materials?

Surface coatings--gelcoat, paint or other: 10 points maximum--Correct original color? Luster and gloss? Are there any runs, drips, dust or peeling? Are two tone paint schemes distinct and crisp? Are metal hulls and decks bright and free of corrosion? Is the finish oxidizing?

Waterline and/or striping: 3 points maximum--Even and straight, appropriate width? Original configuration?

Bottom: 2 points maximum--Is gelcoat, paint or coating of correct color? Is it clean? Chipping, peeling or otherwise unsightly?

Cockpit instruments and switches: 4 points maximum--Originality, appropriateness? Fit, finish and neatness? Gauges properly placed and functional? Gauge faces correct with no pitting, fading or scratches?

Steering wheel and column: 2 points maximum--Original wheel type? Condition? Color correct? Finish quality?

Deck hardware: 6 points maximum--Originality, appropriateness, condition, type and correct placement? Finish luster, shine peeling? Mounting neatness and fit? Appropriate fasteners, type, size, quality and appearance? Screws seated straight, flush and burr-free?

Hull hardware: 2 points maximum--Cut-water (if applicable), rub rails, screws, originality, condition, finish quality?

Flag poles, burgees, ensigns, lights and globes: 4 points maximum--Correct age, size, placement, operability, fit and finish?

Construction of interior decks, seats, cabin sides & tops, bulkheads & upholstery

Seating and cushions: 10 points maximum--(3 point deduction for use of foam instead of kapok. 2 point deduction for use of no springs [where appropriate]. 3 point deduction for wrong material. 2 point deduction for workmanship) Original factory type or similar? Original seat pattern? Appropriate replacement? Workmanship, neatness, color, appropriate sewing pattern and filling?

Side panels, ceilings and crash pads: 6 points maximum--Original pattern, color and material? Fit, condition and finish? Appropriate replacement? Original fasteners?

Original or replacement with same engine model and age or optionally offered original engine: No mandatory deduction.

Any engine totally out of character with the age, type and style of the boat: 7 point mandatory deduction.

Replacement engine, later (or earlier) model than originally offered but no longer in production and, in character with the age, type and style of boat: 2 point mandatory deduction.

Accessories and Exhaust: 3 points maximum--Condition of exhaust, original type? Starter, generator original to engine model? Correct color? Voltage change?

Engine compartment: 3 point maximum-- clean, neat, finish quality, uncluttered? Correct color?

AND SO DO I

Calling all patriots! No !!!!!!!!!!! the British are not coming and the Huns are not at our door. Never the less we are looking for the few, the proud, the captains who will do their patriotic duty.

The July 4, parade in the historical village of Canandaigua is lining up to be a lollapalooza of an event. The parade down Main Street and the parade on the water gives our organization an excellent opportunity to “show our stuff.

The parade is at 10:00 AM and following our parade boats will have a select s[ace to park and display your pride and joy and enjoy the events of the day. The musical line up is going to be great and the boat parade along the shoreline will include everything from race boats to the historical and classic inboards and the great outboards including the Antique Outboard Motor Club, display and the early crazy days of the Fiber Glassics. There will be sail boats and row boats as well as canoes and kayaks. If it floats it will be there.

The theme for the parade is “Full Speed Ahead” in honor of the 50^th anniversary of the visit to Canandaigua Lake by the late Sir Malcolm Campbell and this Blue Bird record setting jet powered speedboat.

THE PERFECT MATCH-UP AOMCI & FIBER GLASSICS

The weekend of June 22, 23 and 24 the Fiber Glassics Chapter and boats powered by motors from the Antique Outboard Motor Club will co-sponsor a weekend boat and motor program at Silver Lake. This event will be nothing but pure fun all around!

Although we may be crowded for space the parking after you unload or launch will be just a short walk away. We will have a great get together with plenty of time to talk and gawk at motors and boats. The party will include a cookout/picnic and a BYOB party on Friday and Saturday evening.

The event will get underway on Friday afternoon and extend well into the evening hours. The big day will be Saturday and Sunday will probably see the weekend move to a winding down to a slow and easy pace as folks begin to head for home. If you want to overnight we will have an area for tents on a private campground.

I am asking you to join in the fun and bring some motors to display and/or sell along with parts, pieces and outboard memorabilia. This concept can be the beginning of something great for our two organizations and at the conclusion of this first year effort we will discuss the potential of an annual event within in the Finger Lakes Chapter territory.

This is yet another venue we can plug into our annual calendar that will be a crowd pleaser plus it opens the door for both clubs to have the exposure of allowing the public to see and learn more about the way we have fun on the water or in the test tank.

Plan now to be a part of the weekend for any one of the three day events or perhaps two or even all three days it’s your choice partner. Please support our Chapter as well as the Fiber Glassics organization and help us make this an event one that will scream for a follow-up in 2008.

Refer to your newsletters, our web site or other email messages that may come your way. “Be there or be square!”.

PS – If you are not attending the Michigan SWAP meets in June please contact me or Jerry Hargrave, at your earliest opportunity.

I was twenty five once! So were most of you. I’m having trouble thinking of a WCCB member that is yet to be twenty five. Nope, I can’t think of one. Well so much for the “yutes” in our chapter. Of course my mind is by some referred to as lightning. One brilliant flash and it’s gone.

We certainly have something to celebrate and even though Joyce and I have only been around for a handful of years now we are keyed up for our SILVER ANNIVERSARY SHOW! So tax time is behind us and oh how it hurt this year as it used to be that only death and taxes were inevitable. Now of course we need to realize that there is shipping and handling charges, too. So clear the decks and come to attention and support Commodore Bernie.

Now what looms before us is the 25^th Annual Hammondsport boat show. I encourage everyone who can to attend our board meetings as we need volunteers like never before. All too often we see the same faces performing the same tasks at our annual show. We all love them for their continuum of support but our 25^th year gives us cause to ask you to PLEASE pitch in and help. We are reaching out to you for the support and participation we need for our Silver Anniversary. Remember “many hands make light work”, Confucius, or was that my quote that “Confu” stole.

It was again determined by our registrants, spectators, vendors and special guests that we are the “friendliest, hardest working and most helpful” chapter and that our show is a hard one to beat. Nice to hear, but we can indeed strive to make it even better in 2007. We will need to raise the bar for our 25^th boat show and the key ingredient this year will be YOU!

Here is an opportunity to learn how to do at least some of the things you’ve long wanted to learn. The following workshops are held at the Glenn H. Curtiss Museum in Hammondsport. To register, contact Ed Wightman, edwightman@empacc.net or 607-868-3025.

WOOD BENDING Saturday, May 12 from 9:00 – 12:00. Using both steam and boiling methods, students will bend a variety of wood over a variety of jigs. Woods include, white cedar, elm, white oak, mahogany and the types of bends will be stems, ribs (canoe and rowboat) planks, stems, cockpit coming and more. $25

OAR MAKING Saturday, May 19 from 9:00 1:00. Bring your favorite block plane and spoke shave with you for this one. Each student will be given a blank of stock from which they will make their own oar. We’re making “Ernie’s Oars”, the oars that Ernie Sutherland made in the early 1900’s. At the end of the day you will take your oar home with you. You will also take with you the know-how to make the second oar, or a paddle if you choose. $35

^{The Trading Dock}

FOR SALE: 1954 Chris Craft, 17’ Sportsman w/trailer and equipment in maintained condition. Original KBL engine, 131 h.p., 3 carburetors, 6 cylinders with speeds up to 40 mph. Engine rebuilt in 2000 by Joe’s (Alexander) Engine Rebuilding Shop, Penn Yan. Galvanized gas tank replaced with new stainless steel, Coast Guard approved, gas tank in 1999. Fuel filter/carburetors rebuilt 2004. New mooring, tent-style cover (mahogany color) in 2006. Three-owner boat. Asking $6,900. Contact Connie McNamara (315) 536-3535 or connie.mcnamara@gmail.com.

For Sale: 1956 Chris Craft 16 Ft. Rocket Special Runabout. Chrysler Ace engine. White hull with all hardware. Needs New Keel and chines. $3500 or best offer. (315)524-3007 Leave Message.

For Sale: Erwin Laitenberger has extensive collection of inboard engines, hardware, new old stock gauges and miscellaneous boat parts too numerous to list. Contact him at (585) 594-8533

For Sale: 1948 Penn Yan Car Topper 12’, solid, no rot, needs minor repair. 1948 3 hp Mercury Comet, has shrouds, owners manual. Contact Dave and Carol Parks (585) 526-6547

For Rent: Cottage for Rent: West Bluff Drive… Keuka Lake For more information contact Cle Ross at Keuka489@airxccess

AND SO DO I

THE PERFECT MATCH-UP AOMCI & FIBER GLASSICS

Send mail to kcnwebs@aol.com with questions or comments about this web site. Last modified: 08/09/08

Send mail to kcnwebs@aol.com with questions or comments about this web site.
Last modified: 08/09/08